Before you call a technician or start browsing for a replacement, hear this: most common appliance breakdowns come down to one worn-out part. And most of those parts cost between $10 and $60, ship to your door and take less time to swap than it takes to watch an episode of just about anything.
Here are 10 of the most fixable appliance problems homeowners face, and exactly what to do about each one.
1. Dryer won't heat. Nine times out of ten, this is a blown thermal fuse. It's a small, inexpensive safety device that cuts power to the heating element when the dryer overheats.
Unplug the dryer, remove the back panel, locate the fuse on the exhaust duct and use a multimeter to test it. No continuity means it's blown. Swap it out and you're done. While you're in there, check your exhaust vent for lint buildup (that's usually what caused the fuse to blow in the first place).
2. Washer won't drain or spin. On top-load washers, a bad lid switch is the usual suspect. The machine won't spin if it thinks the lid is open. Find the switch under the lid (it clicks when you press it). If it's not clicking or it fails a continuity test, replace it.
On front-loaders, a clogged drain pump filter is often the problem. It's usually behind a small access panel at the bottom front of the machine. Twist it open (have a towel ready), clean out whatever's in there and you're back in business.
3. Refrigerator isn't cooling. Before assuming the worst, check two things: the evaporator fan and the door gasket. The evaporator fan circulates cold air through the fridge and freezer. If you hear the compressor running but the fridge is warm, that fan’s motor might be out.
The door gasket is that rubber seal around the door, but can also be a culprit. Do the dollar bill test: Close the door on a dollar bill and try to pull it out. If it slides right out, the seal isn't tight enough. Both parts are straightforward to replace.
4. Dishwasher won't clean dishes. Start with the spray arms. They have small holes that spray water onto your dishes, and those holes clog with mineral deposits or food debris. Pull them off (they usually just unscrew or snap off), rinse them under the faucet and clear any clogged holes with a toothpick. If cleaning them doesn't help, a worn wash arm or a failing drain pump is likely next. Both are accessible and replaceable without professional help.
5. Oven won't heat. On electric ovens, the bake element at the bottom of the oven is almost always responsible. You can see it: If it has a visible crack, blister or burn spot, it's done. Unplug the oven, unscrew the element from the back wall, disconnect the wires and connect your new element. Takes about 20 minutes.
On gas ovens, a weak igniter is the more common issue. If the burner takes a long time to light or doesn't light at all, the igniter is probably the fix.
6. Garbage disposal won't turn on. Before you do anything else, push the red reset button on the bottom of the unit. That solves it more often than you'd think. If the disposal hums but doesn't spin, something is jammed. Use the hex key wrench that came with your disposal (or a standard Allen wrench) in the hex socket on the bottom of the unit and manually turn the grinding plate to free whatever's stuck. If the unit still is making no sound, the switch or the unit itself might need to be replaced.
7. Microwave turntable won't spin. The glass tray sits on a plastic ring and a small motor-driven coupler. If the tray isn't spinning, the coupler (a small plastic piece that connects the tray to the motor) is usually cracked or broken. Take the tray out, pull up the ring and look at the coupler. If it's damaged, it costs a few dollars to replace. If the coupler looks fine, the turntable motor underneath might have failed.
8. Ice maker isn't making ice. The most common culprit is the water inlet valve, which controls water flow into the ice maker. If your ice maker is running but producing little or no ice, feel the water supply line behind the fridge. If it's not cold, water isn't getting through. The valve can be tested with a multimeter and replaced without pulling the entire fridge apart. Also check that the ice maker arm (the wire shutoff arm) is in the down position. Sometimes it gets bumped up accidentally, which tells the machine to stop making ice.
9. Dryer is squealing or thumping. That noise is almost always a worn drum bearing or a fraying drive belt. The drum belt wraps around the drum and connects to the motor: When it wears out, the drum can thump or the machine can stop spinning entirely. Accessing it requires removing the front or top panel, depending on your model, but the swap itself is manageable. Drum bearings and support rollers are worth replacing at the same time since they wear together.
10. Washing machine is leaking. Check the door gasket on front-load washers first. The rubber boot seal around the door can develop tears or accumulate mold and debris that prevents a good seal. Pull back the gasket and look for cracks or damage.
On top-loaders, a leaking water inlet valve or worn tub seal is more likely. The valve is at the back of the machine where the water supply hoses connect. If you see moisture or mineral buildup around it, it's time to replace it.
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